It just isn’t stopping
on 11/17/2009 at 05:08 PM
I’ve got one you’ve got to hit and embed. Especially with this KSM trial coming up.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PtrzcBMbVXsI’m in that number. Now to buy extra high capacity magazines and ammo.
Finally received my .458 SOCOM Upper from Rock River. Ordered on Jan. 6th 2009.
Now the search starts for H4198 to load some of the Barnes 330 gr. Banded Solids.
Have IMR 4198 But the Recipe I was given calls for the Hodgdon and It meters better.HEHEEHEHEHEHEHEh.......Nuff Said
Um - last gun purchase was the “‘Cop Killer’ Armor-Piercing Handgun” (via the Brady Campaign bs on the Fort Hood shooter - btw, have any of you heard of an Armor-Piercing handgun? Love to have one though) - pricy little thing but easier to carry than my Glock.
Now on the ‘accessories’ - we’ve bought a few lately - I think we are going Sat to the Dayton Show.
However since The Won got past the Hildabeast - we have bought most of our guns - and even a (gasp) semi-auto AR-15 (it was a gift) - bet the Brady Bunch calls that an assault weapon.
Ain’t America great Swedeboy? You can go out and spend huge piles of cash to get custom made expensive parts that fit on your expensive rifle that allow it to shoot rare and expensive ammo. Awesome.
Let’s ignore the fact that you could pick up a second hand Marlin 1895 lever gun in .45-70 for very little scratch, and that factory .45-70 ammo is relatively inexpensive, widely and easily available, and even the wimpy factory stuff outperforms the .458 SOCOM. Plus, given the recoil recovery time of such a heavy bullet round, a lever action rifle actually shoots faster than a semi-auto. Magazine capacity? The 1895 CB holds 10 shots. Oh, and you can make your own .45-70 ammo for the Marlins that exceed factory performance by about 50%, but trying to hot-rod the .458 SOCOM will get you missing fingers and a blown up rifle.
You could get equal performance for even less money with a Brazilian Puma lever rifle in .454 Casull or .460 S&W. All these guns shoot a 45 caliber 300 grain bullet at about 2000 feet per second. The 24” barreled Puma holds a lot of rounds.
But practical doesn’t matter. Capitalism lets you do stuff because you want to. You have the money, you get to do what you want. Enjoy it!
PS - IMR 4198 is NOT AT ALL THE SAME as H4198. Totally different burn rate. Do NOT interchange these 2 powders!
PPS - what’s the point of using the 330 Barnes solid at $2 each? That copper bullet is the size of a 450 grain lead bullet ... HUGE!!! ... which eats up loads of powder capacity. Which means you don’t get any kind of velocity. At those low velocities, 15ยข hard cast lead bullets will penetrate just as well, whether we’re talking animals, houses, flack vests or car doors.
I do have Lever guns and I have had 45-70’s.
The Ruger #3 Loaded with 430Gr Hardcast Gaschecks Was accurate and Powerful But it did have the Tendency to Rip the Flesh off one of your knuckles because of the Bad design of the Trigger guard.
If cost of the Ammo is a Concern, No one would Own a Weatherby, $60.00 a Box for most.
If we are in a Pissin Match here, It’s hard to Beat the 50 BMG for SIZE of your Um Projectile
and it’s a whole lot more Pleasant to shoot than that Ruger 45-70.The 50 BMG 750 Grain Hornady AMAX goes for about 3.00 each. But the Best Cheap and accurate Projectile for the BMG is the 710 grain AP for about .30 each.
I have Met some Gun Snobs in my day.
I really don’t care what type of Gun you have as long as you take care of it and have fun.
There was the time we went to the Gun Club outside of Bend, my friend beat all the
Perazzi owners at Trap with his Pump gun while they talked him down.Lastly, I have been reloading since I was 16 for a total of a little over 42 years.
Yes, I know that IMR powders are NOT the same burning rate as Hodgdon powders with the same numbers.
Thank You Very Much and have a good day.
Well, sure, YOU and I know IMR and H ain’t the same. But you’d be amazed how few people do. And since this isn’t a reloading forum, I always err on the side of caution and point things like that out to the other people who might be reading. So no reason to get miffed.
I’m trying to teach my doc how to reload. A doctor. Smart guy, right? I told him to get a can of Reloader 7. He comes back with a can of #7. “They’re the same, right?”
Sheesh! Duh, one does the job, and the other one gets us killed.
Actually, I wasn’t even being sarcastic about the .458s. The SOCOM is a fun round, just like the .45 Blazer. Both are pretty rare. I’ve always gravitated towards the orphan rounds and the unpopular ones, though never enough to actually go and get something like a 5mm Remington rimfire. Which Aguila is making ammo for again, woo hoo!! It’s just that I’ve had lots of experience with really big bullets, and have found that in that niche a plain old chunk of lead works just as well as the fancy ones almost all the time.
Still, I’m wondering why you’re leaning towards the solid. Barnes makes a Tac-Ex polymer boat tail 300 for that round you might really like. And their Original 300 spitzer should do well too. But to each his own!
I’d LOVE to find a Marlin Guide Gun in 45-70! Especially for cheap! What I may imagine is that if they are being sold, it’s because the owner is scared shitless of it, and will let it go cheap. Like the old .22 shooter that bought a Model 29, took it to the range, held it in his standard one handed target grip, and when he woke up at the hospital sold it to the first orderly for $50. Don’t get on a bull if you don’t know how to ride one.
CM, that’s exactly how you find most Marlin 1895s in the gun store. Almost new, with more than half a box of ammo thrown in for free. About 4 or 5 shots and many people say to hell with it.
Mass is the first answer. The little Marlin weighs under 7 pounds; it should weigh 10. Recoil pad area is the second answer. Spread the force over a wider area. The Marlin has a skinny little stock butt plate, which should be as tall and wide as possible. A longer length of pull and a pistol grip stock is the third answer, to get your shootin’ arm to absorb some of the impulse. Lastly, use the “push pull” grip - grasp the forend with your off hand and push it away from you, while pulling the stock towards you with your shooting hand. This helps stop the rifle from sliding over your off hand on firing, and transfers a little more of the recoil impulse to that arm. Also, lean into it, just like with shotguns.
You can drill the stock and forend and weight them with bars of solder or with birdshot. Find the biggest, thickest recoil pad you can and mount it crudely with an 1/8” steel plate between it and the stock. Forget the short barreled Guide Gun or the straight wristed models. Get the plain old original one, 24” barrel and pistol grip stock. Or the XLR model in stainless steel and synthetic stock. Ok, the 1895 CB Cowboy model isn’t bad either with it’s long 28” barrel, but some find it quite muzzle heavy when fully loaded with all 9 shots. These 3 models weigh the most, so they absorb the most recoil. Forget porting. All it’s going to do is deafen you.
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