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calendar   Thursday - February 16, 2012

Good And Ugly

Beef - it’s why we win.

One cow’s worth of hanger steaks, about 1 1/4 lb, usually 2 chunks of meat
1/2 cup apple juice
2-3 tbl apple cider vinegar
a big splash of olive oil
1/2 tsp Szeged Steak Rub from a new or nearly new can
1 tsp Mural of Flavor seasoning from Penzey’s

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Hanger steak, also known as diaphragm meat, is the small bit of meat that holds the diaphragm in place in a cow. It is the ugliest chunk of flesh this side of a halal butcher shop, and for that reason it is often quite inexpensive ($4.49/lb). Rough, uneven, tough and stringy looking, most shoppers give it an “eeeww” glance and move on. Their loss. Hangers are the tastiest, most beefy tasting piece of protein going, and cooked properly make a magnificent meal.

Take a dinner fork and stab each chunk of meat thoroughly to tenderize. Mix the vinegar and the juice in a small bowl. Splash olive oil onto the meat and rub it in with your fingers, then put the meat in a glass baking dish and pour on the juice. Flip the meat a couple of times to coat all sides, then sprinkle on a light amount of the Szeged and a slightly greater light amount of the Mural of Flavor seasonings. Rub the spices in with your fingers. Cover the dish with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 6 to 8 hours, turning the meat every 2 hours.

Face it, these steaks are not going to cook evenly because the meat is so uneven. This isn’t a cut of meat, it’s a hack. So toss them in a hot dry frying pan and sear one side for about 2 minutes, then reduce the heat to medium and cook that side another 3-4 minutes. Crank up the heat and repeat the process for the other side. If you have a nice grill, use it. The important thing is to accept that the thin part of the meat will be well done, and the thick parts will be medium rare. Let the meat rest a couple minutes while you finish off the veg and the tater tots or whatever, and serve. We made this last night and it was the most tender and tasty steak we’d had in ages. The apple flavor comes through with just a tiny hint of the vinegar for piquancy, with the garlic and shallots and brown sugar in the seasoning making great little highlights.

Goes well with Mencia wine, which makes a nice break from the endless cycle of Cabs and Merlots, and is itself a great bargain that gives loads of flavor for the price. Open the wine and pour or decant before you start cooking as it needs half an hour to an hour to breathe.

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$17 and worth it


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Posted by Drew458   United States  on 02/16/2012 at 11:10 AM   
Filed Under: • Fine-Dining •  
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