Parts Is Parts
on 01/06/2007 at 05:19 AM
Part #40 is optional. It is also consumable; you buy 6 or 12 of them at a time and use a new one every 1000 rounds or so. Part #43 will be different if you have a full length part #42. Part #24 seems to have infinite variations depending on which company is making part #21. Part #33 comes in several shapes as well. Find the one that fits your hand the best.Detail stripping a 1911 is pretty easy, but getting the sear assembly back in properly can be fussy. Try holding the frame upside down next time. That works for me. The disconnector often gets on the wrong side of the trigger stirrup otherwise. Here's a <a href="http://www.m1911.org/stripin1.htm">link</a> to a nice page that shows you how to take things apart. For putting them back together, at the very last step, I use a small eyeglasses screwdriver to depress the slide stop retaining plunger while inserting the slide stop. This helps a lot if your Pistol has a very strong plunger spring, otherwise you probably won't need to do this.
<font size="3">Oh foop, I blew the </font><a name="link" href="http://www.m1911.org/stripin1.htm" target="_blank" title="link"><font size="3">link</font></a><font size="3">. Have to learn this new editor.</font>
There is also considerable variation in parts 17 and 52.
and a little variation in 38, 12, and 33.
With custom 1911’s there are variations all over the place. How’d you find a drawing of a 99% stock showing a recoil buffer? Also, for the younger crowd, you’ll need a newer drawing showing the plunger assembly for blocking the firing pin.
Hmmmmmmm, guess we know who the local gun nuts are.
At least in the old Superman movies, a busted / empty gun apparently was more dangerous to Superman, than a loaded one.
Bullets would bounce off his chest, but he always ducked when the Bad Guy threw the “empty” gun at him. Go figure…
what’s with this new authentication code at the bottom
Alpha Zulu Porkchop 47 Tango Golf
